A Timeless Journey Through Riviera di Levante

A Timeless Journey Through Riviera di Levante
Photo by Mario La Pergola / Unsplash

The Riviera di Levante, the eastern half of Liguria's coastline, has been shaped by centuries of maritime trade, pirate invasions, noble families, and cultural exchanges. While today it is known for its picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes, its history reveals a fascinating past of strategic battles, ancient civilizations, and powerful republics.

In this article, we take a journey through time, uncovering the untold stories and historical landmarks of the Riviera di Levante.

1. Ancient Ligurians, Romans, and Early Civilizations

Before the rise of Genoa and the Middle Ages, the Riviera di Levante was home to the Ligurian tribes, a mysterious pre-Roman people known for their seafaring skills, hilltop settlements, and resistance against invaders.

  • Ligurian Tribes (1000 BC – 180 BC): The first inhabitants of the region were skilled warriors and traders, who resisted Roman conquest for over a century.
  • Roman Rule (180 BC – 476 AD): The Romans finally subdued the Ligurians, integrating the coast into the empire. Luna (modern-day Luni) became an important Roman colony, famous for its marble quarries, which provided material for monuments in Rome, including the Pantheon.
  • Via Aurelia (1st Century BC): This ancient Roman road, built under Emperor Augustus, connected Rome to France, passing through the Riviera di Levante and boosting trade and military control.

Even today, you can find traces of the Roman presence in Luni's archaeological site, where ruins of a Roman amphitheater, baths, and roads remain.

2. The Middle Ages: Castles, Pirates, and the Rise of Genoa

The Saracen Raids and the Age of Fortifications

From the 8th to the 16th century, the Ligurian coast was frequently attacked by Saracen (Moorish) pirates, who raided villages, kidnapped locals for ransom, and looted monasteries.

To defend against these raids, towns and villages along the Riviera di Levante built fortresses, watchtowers, and underground escape routes. Some of the most famous fortifications include:

  • Castle of Portovenere (12th Century): Built by the Genoese to protect against pirates and rival powers.
  • Castle of Lerici (1152): A stronghold overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia, used to guard strategic naval routes.
  • Vernazza's Doria Castle: A medieval tower in Cinque Terre, built to defend against Saracen and Turkish pirates.

The Rise of Genoa and the Maritime Republic (11th – 16th Century)

As piracy became a growing threat, Genoa emerged as one of the most powerful Maritime Republics of the Mediterranean, rivaling Venice, Pisa, and Amalfi.

  • Genoese Domination: By the 12th century, Genoa had gained control over the Riviera di Levante, transforming coastal towns into naval and commercial hubs.
  • Camogli: The City of a Thousand White Sails – This town became a crucial port for the Genoese navy, famous for its fleet of merchant ships and naval commanders.
  • Portofino: Originally a small fishing village, Portofino was used as a strategic naval outpost and later became a retreat for noble families.

3. Renaissance and the Age of Exploration

The Renaissance (15th – 17th century) brought a period of prosperity, with the Riviera di Levante benefiting from flourishing trade, architectural developments, and cultural exchanges.

The Influence of the Genoese Nobility

During this time, wealthy Genoese families such as the Doria and Fieschi built palaces, churches, and villas along the coast. Some notable examples include:

  • San Fruttuoso Abbey (10th – 16th Century): Originally a Benedictine monastery, it was later fortified by the Doria family and served as a refuge for sailors and monks.
  • Villa Durazzo in Santa Margherita Ligure: A luxurious villa built by the Durazzo family, reflecting Genoese Baroque architecture.

The Ligurian coast played an essential role in the Age of Exploration:

  • Christopher Columbus: The famous explorer was born in Genoa, and some historians suggest that he might have spent time in Camogli or Portovenere before his voyages to the New World.
  • Andrea Doria (1466–1560): A powerful admiral from Genoa, Andrea Doria defended Liguria from Ottoman and French invasions, ensuring Genoese dominance in the Mediterranean.

4. Napoleonic Era and the Fall of the Republic of Genoa

Napoleon's Influence (1797 – 1815)

By the end of the 18th century, Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Liguria, marking the fall of the Genoese Republic.

  • The Ligurian Republic (1797 – 1805): Created as a French puppet state, replacing Genoa's independent rule.
  • The End of the Republic: In 1815, after Napoleon's defeat, Liguria was annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia, eventually becoming part of Italy in 1861.

Even today, you can see Napoleonic-era forts and coastal defenses in La Spezia and Portovenere.

5. 19th and 20th Century: The Riviera Becomes a Travel Destination

With the arrival of the railway in the 19th century, the Riviera di Levante transformed into a popular destination for European aristocracy and artists.

  • The English and Russian Influence: Wealthy British and Russian noble families built elegant villas in Rapallo, Portofino, and Santa Margherita Ligure.
  • The Birth of Tourism: Writers such as Lord Byron and Percy Shelley found inspiration in the cliffs of Portovenere, leading to the creation of "Byron's Grotto".
  • World War II: The region suffered heavy bombings and battles between Italian partisans and German forces, especially in La Spezia, which was a key naval base.

6. Modern-Day Heritage and Preservation Efforts

Today, the Riviera di Levante is a UNESCO-protected region, with ongoing efforts to preserve its historical landmarks and cultural identity.

  • Cinque Terre National Park (October 6th, 1999): Created to protect the ancient terraced vineyards, medieval churches, and fishing villages.
  • Restoration of Castles and Monuments: Many of the ancient fortresses, monasteries, and palaces have been restored and are now open to visitors.

If you walk through the ancient streets of Portovenere, Lerici, or Camogli, you'll feel as if you've stepped back in time, surrounded by the echoes of centuries of maritime power, noble families, and legendary explorers.

The Riviera di Levante is not just a tourist destination; it is a living museum of Ligurian history, where every castle, church, and port tells a story of pirates, merchants, and adventurers.

If you're a history lover, this region offers a journey through time, revealing the secrets of one of Italy's most fascinating coasts.

Are you fascinated by Ligurian history? Let us know your favorite historical site!